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Sari Salltëk

Bektashi holy man and legendary
figure, Sari Salltëk, known in Turkish as Sari Saltuk, is
said to have been either a dervish at the court of Sultan Orhan
(1326-1360) or a direct disciple of Haji Bektash Veli, founder
of the Bektashi order. It is more likely, however, that he was
a figure
of early Balkan and not originally of Bektashi or Muslim legendry.
The Bektashi simply took advantage of his popularity as a symbol
of Islamic-Christian syncretism and religious tolerance in order
to promote their own doctrines. The first legends associated
with Sari Salltëk were recorded by the Moroccan voyager
and geographer Ibn Battuta (1304-1377). From documents dating
from 1538, we know that such legends were very popular in the
Balkans. In Albania, Sari Salltëk is particularly associated
with the town of Kruja, where he was, and to an extent, still
is an object of veneration. He is said to have died on the Greek
island of Corfu and is identified in the Orthodox tradition with
Saint Spyridon. In the nineteenth century, many Albanian Bektashi
went on pilgrimage to the Church of Saint Spyridon on Corfu to
worship the patron saint of the island under his Islamic name.
All in all, Sari Salltëk is said to have seven graves, the
number seven often occurring in his legends, and each grave contains
a part of his body. The core of the Albanian version of the legend
of Sari Salltëk, recorded by Jules Alexandre Degrand in
1901, is as follows:
In Kruja, there was once a Christian
prince with a fair daughter. He would have been happy, had it
not been for a terrible Kulshedra which housed in a cave on the
top of the mountain. Every day the dragon would bask in the sun
in the ruins of a church, having demanded of the inhabitants
of the town that they cast lots to be sacrificed and devoured,
one man or woman every day. Many heroes had endeavoured to slay
the beast, but to no avail. One day, an aged dervish with a white
beard came to town, girded with a wooden sword and bearing the
branch of a cypress tree in his hand. Having been informed of
the terrible monster, he resolved to climb up to the cave. On
his way up the mountainside the next day, he met the tearful
daughter of the prince, who was on her way to the Kulshedra to
be sacrificed. He said to her, "Do not cry. We will go together
and I will not abandon you for a moment." On their way,
the old man asked the maiden to scratch his head because his
hair was full of lice. She agreed and the scratching brought
the old man such relief that he fell asleep with his head in
her lap, but was soon awakened by the maiden's tears. At sunset
they reached the summit of the mountain, arid and parched as
it was from the Kulshedra's fiery breath. There was such heat
there that the maiden began complaining of thirst. Thereupon,
the old man plunged his staff into the cliff and out gushed a
spring of water. After they had quenched their thirst, they were
attacked three times by the fiery Kulshedra, but the dragon could
do them no harm. The dervish then pursued the monster into its
cave and slew it with his wooden sword, cutting off its seven
heads and sticking its seven tongues into his pocket. He then
told the maiden to return home to her father.
Overjoyed that his daughter had been
saved from the Kulshedra, the prince resolved to offer her hand
to the man who had saved her, still not knowing who had slain
the beast. Many young men came forth pretending to have done
the job, but none of them received the three apples the maiden
held in her hands. When the dervish was called for, the townspeople
began to mock him, not believing that such an old man could possibly
have slain the dragon, but the maiden intervened and gave him
the three apples, one by one. As proof of his deed, the dervish
showed the prince the seven tongues of the Kulshedra, but declined
to accept the hand of the maiden, saying, "We dervishes
do not marry women against their will. Keep your daughter and
your treasures. Allow me only to live in the dragon's cave, and
have a bit of food brought up to me every day." The prince
agreed and so it was. After several years had passed, however,
the inhabitants of Kruja grew envious of the powers of the dervish.
They were convinced that he was going to slay them, too, and
resolved to murder him first. But one of Sari Salltëk's
disciples, who brought him his food every day, warned the dervish
in time, saying, "Take this watermelon, eat it and flee,
for the assassins are on their way." The dervish, carving
his watermelon, was infuriated at the unjust behaviour of the
townspeople. Hurling the watermelon against the roof of the cave,
he shouted, "Here's their melon. They can have it back as
a souvenir!" Ever since that time, there have been watermelon
seeds and red juice in the cave, which the people of Kruja were
wont to drink as a magic potent. Sari Salltëk then rode
up to the peak of the mountain on the back of a mule and, in
four great strides, departed for Corfu, leaving his footprints
in Kruja, Shijak and Durrës.

[excerpt from Jules Alexandre
Degrand: Souvenirs de la Haute-Albanie, Paris 1901, p.
236-243. Translated from the French by Robert Elsie.]
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